How to Fix a Leaky Faucet: Step-by-Step Repair Guide

Why Your Faucet Is Leaking

A dripping faucet is one of the most common plumbing issues in Ontario homes, and it is almost always caused by a worn internal part that costs a few dollars to replace. Understanding where the leak is coming from and what is causing it helps you decide whether to fix it yourself or call a professional — and either way, it should not be ignored.

Common causes by leak location

Where the water appears tells you what is failing inside the faucet:

• Dripping from the spout when the faucet is off: The most common type. This means the internal sealing mechanism — a washer, cartridge, ball assembly, or ceramic disc — is worn, damaged, or has debris preventing a complete seal. The specific part depends on your faucet type, but the principle is the same: something that should block water flow when the handle is in the off position is no longer doing its job.
• Leaking around the base of the spout: Water pooling where the spout meets the faucet body usually indicates worn O-rings. These rubber rings sit around the faucet body beneath the spout and create a seal. Over time, they harden, crack, or compress beyond their sealing capacity. This is common on pull-down and swivel-spout kitchen faucets that move frequently.
• Leaking from the handle area: Water seeping from around the handle when the faucet is on points to a worn O-ring or packing nut on the valve stem. The packing nut compresses a seal around the stem to prevent water from escaping upward around the handle. Tightening the packing nut slightly may temporarily stop this leak, but replacing the O-ring or packing is the proper fix.
• Leaking from under the sink: If water drips from the faucet connections underneath the sink, the supply line connections may be loose or the supply lines themselves may be deteriorating. This is not a faucet mechanism issue — it is a connection issue that may require tightening fittings or replacing supply lines.

How much a leaky faucet costs you

A faucet that drips once per second wastes approximately 11,000 litres of water per year — enough to fill a backyard swimming pool over a few seasons. At current Ontario municipal water rates, that adds $30 to $80 to your annual water bill depending on your municipality's rate structure. A faster drip or steady trickle can waste 30,000 litres or more per year. Beyond the direct cost, sustained dripping causes mineral staining on fixtures and sinks, promotes mold growth in the splash zone, and if the leak is under the sink, can damage cabinetry and flooring before you notice. The repair itself typically costs $5 to $30 in parts if you do it yourself, making it one of the highest-return fixes you can do in your home.

Identify Your Faucet Type Before You Start

There are four main types of residential faucets, and each uses a different internal mechanism to control water flow. Knowing which type you have before you start disassembly determines what parts you need and what repair steps to follow. Buying the wrong parts is the most common reason DIY faucet repairs stall.

Compression faucets

Compression faucets are the oldest and simplest design. They have two separate handles — one for hot and one for cold — that you screw down (clockwise) to close. Inside, a rubber washer at the bottom of the valve stem compresses against a brass valve seat to stop water flow. When the washer wears out (it will — rubber degrades over time), water seeps past the seal and drips from the spout. These are the most leak-prone faucet type but also the easiest and cheapest to repair. You will find compression faucets in many older Ontario homes, particularly in bathrooms. The repair involves replacing the rubber washer (and often the O-ring on the stem) — parts that cost $2 to $8 at any hardware store.

Cartridge faucets

Cartridge faucets can have one or two handles. Inside, a removable cylindrical cartridge contains the sealing mechanism. Turning or lifting the handle moves the cartridge to control water flow and temperature. When the cartridge wears out, seals inside it degrade and allow water to pass when they should not. Cartridge faucets are among the most common types in modern Ontario homes — Moen and many other major brands use cartridge designs. The repair involves pulling out the old cartridge and inserting a new one that matches exactly. Replacement cartridges cost $10 to $30 depending on brand and model. The most critical step is matching the replacement to your specific faucet — cartridges are not universal.

Ball faucets

Ball faucets use a single handle and are identified by the rounded cap at the base of the handle where it meets the faucet body. Inside, a slotted metal or plastic ball rotates to align with inlet holes, controlling both flow and temperature. Springs and rubber seats beneath the ball create seals against the inlet ports. Ball faucets have more internal parts than other types, which means more potential failure points. When they leak, it can be the springs, the rubber seats, the O-rings around the faucet body, the ball itself (if scratched or corroded), or the cam and cam washer above the ball. Because diagnosing the exact failed component is difficult without disassembly, most plumbers and experienced DIYers recommend installing a complete repair kit ($15 to $25) rather than trying to replace individual pieces. Delta is the most common ball faucet brand in Canadian homes.

Ceramic disc faucets

Ceramic disc faucets are the most modern and durable design. A single handle controls a wide cylindrical assembly containing two ceramic discs that slide against each other. The smooth ceramic surfaces create an extremely tight seal, which is why disc faucets rarely leak compared to other types. When they do leak, it is usually because the inlet seals (small rubber gaskets at the bottom of the disc assembly) have worn, or less commonly, because the ceramic discs themselves are cracked or pitted. Replacement involves either changing the inlet seals (if the discs are intact) or replacing the entire disc cylinder ($15 to $60). Ceramic disc faucets require more careful handling during repair — the ceramic is durable in operation but can crack if dropped or reassembled with excessive force. When turning the water back on after a disc faucet repair, open the supply valves slowly to avoid pressure shock that can fracture the discs.

Tools and Parts You Need

Most faucet repairs require basic tools that most homeowners already own. Having everything ready before you start prevents frustrating trips to the hardware store mid-repair with your faucet in pieces and the water shut off.

Essential tools

• Adjustable wrench: For removing packing nuts, caps, and retaining nuts. Wrap the jaws with electrical tape or a cloth to avoid scratching chrome or brushed nickel finishes.
• Screwdrivers: Both Phillips and flathead. Flathead for prying off decorative caps; Phillips for handle screws on many models.
• Allen key set (hex wrenches): Many modern single-handle faucets use Allen-head set screws to secure the handle. A standard metric and imperial set covers most brands.
• Needle-nose pliers: For removing retaining clips on cartridge faucets and pulling out springs and rubber seats from ball faucets.
• Utility knife: For cutting old O-rings without damaging the faucet body.
• Flashlight or headlamp: Under-sink work requires good visibility to locate shut-off valves and inspect connections.

Common replacement parts

• Rubber washers: $1 to $5 for an assortment pack. Match the exact diameter and thickness to the worn washer you removed.
• O-rings: $2 to $6 for a variety pack. Available in standard plumbing sizes at any hardware store. Bring the old one to match the size precisely.
• Cartridges: $10 to $30 depending on brand. Moen 1225 and Delta RP46074 are the two most common in Ontario homes. Bring the old cartridge to the store or search your faucet model number online to ensure an exact match.
• Ball faucet repair kit: $15 to $25. Includes springs, rubber seats, cam, cam washer, and O-rings. Brand-specific kits (Delta, Peerless) ensure proper fit.
• Ceramic disc cylinder: $15 to $60. Less commonly needed since disc faucets rarely fail. Replace the full cylinder rather than attempting to refinish or repair the discs.
• Plumber's grease: $3 to $6 for a tube. Apply to O-rings and rubber seals during reassembly to improve seal performance and make future disassembly easier.

Estimated DIY cost

For a homeowner who owns basic tools, the total cost of a faucet repair is $5 to $40 depending on the faucet type and which parts need replacing. A compression faucet washer swap is the cheapest at $2 to $8. A cartridge replacement is the most common repair at $10 to $30. A full ball faucet repair kit runs $15 to $25. Compare this to the $150 to $350 a licensed plumber charges for the same repair in Ontario — the savings make this one of the most worthwhile DIY plumbing projects you can tackle.

How to Fix a Compression Faucet

Compression faucets are the simplest to repair and the best starting point for someone who has never done a faucet repair before. The parts are inexpensive and the mechanism is straightforward.

Step-by-step repair

1. Shut off the water supply. Locate the hot and cold shut-off valves under the sink and turn them clockwise until fully closed. Open the faucet to drain any remaining water and release pressure from the lines.
2. Protect the workspace. Place a towel or cloth in the sink basin to catch small parts and protect the finish. Close or cover the drain to prevent screws or washers from falling in.
3. Remove the handle. Pry off the decorative cap on top of the handle using a flathead screwdriver. Remove the handle screw (usually Phillips head) underneath. Lift the handle straight off the stem. If the handle is stuck from mineral buildup, gently wiggle it while pulling upward. A small amount of penetrating oil around the base can help free a seized handle — let it sit for 5 minutes before trying again.
4. Remove the packing nut. Use an adjustable wrench to turn the packing nut (hexagonal brass nut) counter-clockwise. Once loose, unscrew it by hand and set it aside.
5. Remove the stem. The stem should lift or unscrew out of the faucet body. Turn it counter-clockwise if it does not lift freely — some stems are threaded into the faucet body.
6. Replace the seat washer. At the bottom of the stem, a rubber washer is held in place by a brass screw. Remove the screw, take out the old washer, and install a new washer of exactly the same size. If the brass screw is corroded, replace it too. Tighten the screw snugly but do not overtighten — you can crack the new washer.
7. Inspect and replace the O-ring. While the stem is out, check the O-ring around the stem body (it sits in a groove). If it is flattened, cracked, or hardened, cut it off with a utility knife and roll a new one into place. Apply a thin coat of plumber's grease to the new O-ring.
8. Check the valve seat. Look inside the faucet body where the washer sits when closed. The valve seat is a brass ring at the bottom. If it feels rough, pitted, or grooved when you run a finger across it, the seat needs to be either resurfaced with a valve seat dresser or replaced. A damaged seat will chew through new washers quickly.
9. Reassemble. Insert the stem back into the faucet body, screw on the packing nut (hand-tight plus a quarter turn with the wrench), reinstall the handle, tighten the handle screw, and press the decorative cap back on.
10. Test. Turn the water supply back on slowly. Open and close the faucet several times. Check for drips at the spout, around the handle, and under the sink at the supply connections.

Common complications

The most frequent problem is a damaged valve seat. Even a perfect new washer will not seal against a pitted or grooved seat, and the new washer will wear out prematurely. A valve seat dresser (a specialized tool that resurfaces the seat) costs $10 to $20 and is worth owning if you have compression faucets in multiple bathrooms. If the seat is removable (some are threaded), you can replace it entirely for $5 to $10. Another common issue is a stem that is corroded or bent — if the stem does not move smoothly or the threads are damaged, replace the entire stem assembly ($8 to $15) rather than trying to repair individual components.

How to Fix a Cartridge Faucet

Cartridge faucets are the most common type in modern Ontario homes, and the repair is straightforward once you have the correct replacement cartridge. The entire process takes 30 to 60 minutes.

Step-by-step repair

1. Shut off the water and drain the lines. Close both shut-off valves under the sink and open the faucet to release remaining pressure and water.
2. Remove the handle. Look for a set screw — it is usually hidden under a decorative cap on the top or back of the handle, or on the side near the base. Remove the cap with a flathead screwdriver, then use an Allen key to loosen the set screw. Lift the handle off. On two-handle cartridge faucets, each handle removes independently — repair whichever side is leaking, or both if you are unsure.
3. Remove the retaining clip or nut. Beneath the handle, you may see a decorative sleeve or bonnet nut — unscrew and remove it. Look for a retaining clip — a small horseshoe-shaped metal clip that holds the cartridge in place. Use needle-nose pliers to pull the clip straight out. Not all cartridge faucets use a clip; some use a threaded retaining nut instead.
4. Remove the cartridge. Grip the top of the cartridge with pliers and pull it straight up and out. Note the orientation before removing it — cartridges must go back in the same position or hot and cold will be reversed. Take a photo with your phone before removing the cartridge so you have a reference for reassembly. If the cartridge is stuck from mineral buildup, grip it firmly and twist gently while pulling upward. Moen offers a free cartridge puller tool for seized cartridges — contact their customer service.
5. Match the replacement cartridge. Take the old cartridge to the hardware store and match it exactly. Cartridges are brand and model specific — a Moen 1225 is different from a Moen 1222, and a Delta cartridge will not fit a Moen body. If you cannot find the exact match locally, search your faucet brand and model number online. Most cartridges can be ordered directly from the manufacturer.
6. Install the new cartridge. Apply plumber's grease to the O-rings on the new cartridge. Slide it into the faucet body in the same orientation as the old one (match the tabs, slots, or flat sides). It should seat firmly with moderate pressure — do not force it. Reinsert the retaining clip or tighten the retaining nut.
7. Reassemble and test. Replace the decorative sleeve or bonnet nut, reinstall the handle, and tighten the set screw. Turn the water supply on slowly and test both hot and cold operation. If hot and cold are reversed, remove the cartridge and rotate it 180 degrees.

Identifying the correct replacement cartridge

This is the step where most DIY faucet repairs go wrong. Cartridges look similar but have different lengths, diameters, and connection configurations. The best approach is to find your faucet's brand and model number (usually printed on the faucet body, visible when the handle is removed, or stamped on the original cartridge) and order the manufacturer-specified replacement. For Moen faucets — the most common brand in Ontario homes — the two most popular cartridges are the 1225 (used in many kitchen and bathroom models) and the 1222 (used in Posi-Temp shower valves). Both are available at most Canadian hardware stores for $15 to $25. If your faucet is under warranty, many manufacturers including Moen provide free replacement cartridges — check the warranty terms before purchasing.

How to Fix a Ball Faucet

Ball faucets have more internal components than other types, which makes diagnosing the specific failed part difficult without full disassembly. The practical approach is to replace all the wear components at once using a repair kit.

Step-by-step repair

1. Shut off the water and drain. Close both supply valves and open the faucet to release pressure.
2. Remove the handle. Find the set screw on the side or back of the handle base. Loosen it with an Allen key and lift the handle off.
3. Remove the cap and collar. Use an adjustable wrench (with taped jaws to protect the finish) to loosen the rounded cap. Unscrew it and lift off the cap and collar.
4. Remove the cam, cam washer, and ball. Lift out the cam (a plastic piece with a tab) and the rubber cam washer beneath it. Then lift out the ball. Note how the ball's slot aligns with the pin inside the faucet body — it must go back the same way.
5. Remove old springs and seats. Inside the faucet body, you will see two holes (the hot and cold inlet ports). In each hole sits a small spring with a rubber seat on top. Use needle-nose pliers or a small flathead screwdriver to pull out both sets of springs and seats. These are the most common leak source in ball faucets.
6. Replace O-rings. If the leak was at the base of the spout, twist the spout off the faucet body to access the O-rings around the body. Cut off the old O-rings and roll new ones (from your repair kit) into the grooves. Apply plumber's grease to each new O-ring.
7. Install new springs and seats. Drop a new spring into each inlet hole, then place a new rubber seat on top of each spring. Use the tip of a screwdriver to push them into position.
8. Reassemble. Insert the ball with the slot aligned to the pin. Place the new cam washer over the ball, then the cam with its tab aligned to the notch in the faucet body. Screw the cap and collar back on — hand-tight plus a quarter turn. Reinstall the handle and tighten the set screw.
9. Test. Turn the water on slowly. Move the handle through its full range to test hot, cold, and mixed positions. Check the base and under the sink for any remaining leaks.

When to use a full repair kit vs individual parts

Always use the full repair kit. Ball faucet repair kits from Delta (the most common ball faucet manufacturer) cost $15 to $25 and include every wear component: springs, rubber seats, cam, cam washer, and O-rings. Since you are already disassembling the faucet, replacing all wear parts at once prevents having to repeat the process when another component fails six months later. Trying to replace just the springs or just the O-rings saves a few dollars but often results in a second repair within months because the other worn parts were left in place. Inspect the ball itself while the faucet is apart — if it is scratched, corroded, or pitted, replace it too. A damaged ball costs $8 to $15 and will cause leaks regardless of how new the other components are.

How to Fix a Ceramic Disc Faucet

Ceramic disc faucets are the most reliable type and rarely need repair. When they do leak, the repair is straightforward but requires more careful handling than other faucet types.

Step-by-step repair

1. Shut off the water and drain. Close supply valves and open the faucet. With disc faucets, leave the handle in the open position during reassembly to prevent pressure shock when you turn the water back on.
2. Remove the handle. Lift or pry off the decorative cap. Remove the set screw (usually Allen head) and lift the handle off. Remove the decorative escutcheon plate if present.
3. Remove the disc cylinder. Unscrew the mounting screws (usually two or three) that secure the disc cylinder to the faucet body. Lift the cylinder straight out. It is wider and heavier than a typical cartridge — handle it carefully to avoid chipping the ceramic.
4. Inspect the disc faces. Look at the flat ceramic surfaces. If you see cracks, chips, or deep scratches, the entire cylinder must be replaced. Minor mineral deposits can be cleaned with white vinegar and a soft cloth.
5. Check and replace the inlet seals. On the underside of the disc cylinder, you will find small rubber seals (usually three) sitting in the inlet ports. These are the most common failure point. Pry them out gently with a small screwdriver. Clean the seal seats thoroughly — mineral buildup prevents the new seals from sitting flush. Install new seals and ensure they are fully seated in their ports.
6. Clean the cylinder openings. Use white vinegar and a plastic scouring pad (not metal) to clean the openings in the faucet body where the disc cylinder sits. Mineral deposits here can prevent proper sealing even with new parts.
7. Reassemble carefully. Set the disc cylinder back into the faucet body and secure the mounting screws. Do not overtighten — the ceramic can crack under excessive force. Reinstall the escutcheon, handle, and decorative cap.
8. Turn water on very slowly. This is critical for disc faucets. Open the supply valves gradually — a sudden pressure surge can fracture the ceramic discs. Let the faucet run for a minute to flush any debris, then install the aerator and check for leaks.

Why disc faucets sometimes need professional repair

Ceramic disc faucets are precision components. The ceramic surfaces are manufactured to extremely tight tolerances, and the disc cylinder must sit perfectly flat in the faucet body to seal properly. If the faucet body is corroded, mineral-encrusted, or damaged where the cylinder seats, even new seals and a new cylinder may not create a reliable seal. This kind of body damage is difficult to diagnose without experience, and the cost of replacing seals, then a cylinder, then potentially the entire faucet makes professional assessment worthwhile when simple seal replacement does not resolve the leak. A plumber can determine in minutes whether the body is salvageable or whether faucet replacement is the more practical path. Disc faucet repairs account for a small fraction of faucet leak calls because these faucets are inherently reliable — but when they do fail, the repair demands more precision than other types.

Kitchen vs Bathroom Faucet Repairs

While the internal mechanism is the same regardless of location, kitchen and bathroom faucets present different practical challenges during repair.

Kitchen faucet considerations

Kitchen faucets handle significantly more daily use than bathroom faucets — they are operated dozens of times per day versus a few times per day for a guest bathroom. This higher use rate means kitchen faucet components wear faster. Pull-down and pull-out kitchen faucets add complexity because the retractable hose and spray head introduce additional connection points and O-rings that can leak. If your kitchen faucet leaks from the spray head or hose connection rather than the spout, the issue is usually a worn hose O-ring or a damaged diverter valve rather than the main cartridge or ball assembly.

Access is often more difficult in kitchens. The space under a kitchen sink is typically crowded with a garbage disposal, dishwasher connections, water filtration system, and cleaning supplies. Clear the cabinet completely before starting work and use a headlamp or flashlight for visibility. Kitchen shut-off valves are sometimes harder to reach and more prone to seizing because they are operated less frequently than bathroom valves.

Bathroom faucet considerations

Bathroom sink faucets are typically smaller and simpler to work on than kitchen models. Two-handle compression faucets are still common in Ontario bathrooms, especially in homes built before the 1990s. These are the easiest faucets to repair. Single-handle bathroom faucets are almost always cartridge types. Access under bathroom sinks is generally better than kitchens because there are fewer components competing for space in the vanity cabinet.

Bathtub and shower faucets require different access strategies. The shut-off valves may be behind an access panel in the wall rather than under a sink. If there is no access panel, you may need to shut off the main water supply. Shower cartridges (particularly the Moen 1222 Posi-Temp) require a cartridge puller tool for removal because they are pressed tightly into the valve body and sealed by water pressure over years of use. A shower cartridge replacement is a moderately difficult DIY project — achievable for experienced homeowners but one where calling a professional is a reasonable choice, especially if the valve is recessed deep in the wall cavity.

When to Call a Professional Plumber

Most faucet leaks are legitimate DIY repairs, but some situations warrant professional help. Knowing the line between a productive weekend project and a potential disaster saves you both money and frustration.

Signs the repair is beyond DIY

• The shut-off valves do not work. If you cannot stop the water flow to the faucet, you cannot safely disassemble it. A plumber can shut off the main and replace your failed shut-off valves at the same time as the faucet repair.
• The leak persists after parts replacement. If you have replaced the cartridge, washer, or ball assembly and the faucet still drips, the issue is likely a corroded valve seat, a damaged faucet body, or a problem you cannot see without professional diagnostic tools. Repeated failed repairs waste time and parts.
• Multiple fixtures are leaking simultaneously. When several faucets or fixtures start dripping around the same time, the issue may be excessive water pressure rather than individual component failure. A plumber can test your home's water pressure and install a pressure-reducing valve if it exceeds 80 PSI — the maximum recommended for residential plumbing under the Ontario Building Code. High pressure accelerates wear on every fixture in the house.
• You see water damage in the cabinet or wall. Staining, soft spots, swelling, or mold growth beneath or behind the faucet indicates the leak has been going on longer than the drip suggests, or there is a secondary leak from supply connections. A plumber with leak detection equipment can identify all leak sources and assess whether water damage remediation is needed.
• The faucet is old and parts are unavailable. Faucets older than 15 to 20 years may use discontinued cartridges or non-standard components. A plumber has access to wholesale supply networks and cross-reference databases that consumer hardware stores do not carry.
• The faucet is wall-mounted or recessed. Wall-mounted and in-wall faucets (common in bathtubs and showers) require working inside the wall cavity where supply lines, other plumbing, and sometimes electrical wiring are present. The risk of damaging hidden components makes professional handling prudent.

Repair vs replacement: the decision framework

A straightforward repair (washer, O-ring, or cartridge swap) on a faucet that is otherwise in good condition is almost always the right choice. The $5 to $30 in parts buys years of additional service life. Replacement becomes the better option when the faucet body is cracked or severely corroded, when you have repaired the same faucet multiple times within a year (indicating systemic failure rather than normal wear), when the faucet is so old that replacement parts are discontinued or prohibitively expensive, or when you are renovating and want to upgrade the fixture anyway. A new kitchen faucet costs $100 to $400 for the fixture; a bathroom faucet runs $50 to $250. Professional installation adds $150 to $350 for labour. For more on fixture installation options, see our faucet and fixture installation service page.

What a plumber charges in Ontario for faucet repair

Licensed plumbers in Ontario charge $110 to $150 per hour during regular business hours, with most applying a service call fee or minimum charge that covers the first hour. For a faucet repair, the total cost including parts typically ranges from $150 to $350. The breakdown is usually $90 to $150 for the service call and first hour of labour, $10 to $30 for parts (cartridge, washers, O-rings), and potentially $50 to $100 in additional labour if complications arise. After-hours, weekend, or holiday calls carry a premium of 1.5 to 2 times the standard rate, potentially pushing a simple faucet repair to $300 to $500. If you can wait until regular business hours, doing so saves $100 or more on the same repair.

Preventing Future Faucet Leaks

While all faucets will eventually need repair — moving parts and rubber seals wear out — basic maintenance extends the interval between repairs significantly.

Maintenance that extends faucet life

• Clean the aerator regularly. Unscrew the aerator from the faucet spout every few months and rinse out sediment and mineral deposits. Soak it in white vinegar for 15 minutes if buildup is heavy. A clogged aerator increases back-pressure on internal seals and accelerates wear.
• Do not force the handles. Overtightening compression faucet handles crushes the washer faster. Turn the handle just enough to stop the water flow — the extra half-turn many people add does nothing but accelerate washer wear.
• Address hard water. Ontario's hard water is the primary accelerator of faucet wear. Mineral deposits build up on sealing surfaces, abrade rubber components, and clog internal passages. If your water tests above 10 GPG, a water softener reduces mineral impact on all fixtures in your home and noticeably extends faucet, water heater, and appliance life.
• Fix small drips immediately. A slow drip may seem harmless, but the constant water flow erodes the valve seat over time. What starts as a simple $5 washer replacement becomes a $50 valve seat repair or a $300 faucet replacement if the drip is ignored for months.
• Exercise shut-off valves annually. Turn the shut-off valves under each sink on and off once a year to prevent them from seizing. A stuck shut-off valve during a plumbing emergency forces you to shut off the entire house — an avoidable complication.

When to upgrade your fixtures

If your home has compression faucets that are original to a home built before 1990, consider upgrading to cartridge or ceramic disc faucets as they fail. The newer designs seal more reliably, are easier to repair when they eventually need service, and use less water per minute when paired with modern aerators. A mid-range cartridge faucet from a reputable brand (Moen, Delta, Kohler) costs $100 to $300 and will typically provide 15 to 20 years of service with one or two cartridge replacements over its lifetime. Compared to the every-year-or-two washer replacements that compression faucets demand, the upgrade pays for itself in reduced maintenance time and parts even before considering the water savings from modern flow rates.

Get Faucet Repair Quotes

Whether your faucet needs a simple cartridge swap or a full replacement, getting clear pricing from a licensed plumber eliminates guesswork and gives you a baseline to compare against a DIY attempt.

How to describe your issue for faster service

When contacting a plumber, provide: the faucet brand and model (if known), where the leak is coming from (spout, base, handle, or under the sink), whether the leak is constant or only when the faucet is on, how many faucets are affected, and whether you have already attempted a repair. This information helps the plumber bring the right parts on the first visit, reducing the chance of a return trip. Photos of the faucet and the leak location are helpful — most plumbing companies accept them via text or email when you request a quote.

Getting the best value

For a standard faucet repair, ask whether the plumber offers flat-rate pricing (a single price for the complete repair) versus hourly billing. Flat rates give you cost certainty; hourly rates can be cheaper for quick repairs but more expensive if complications arise. Confirm whether the quoted price includes parts or if parts are billed separately. Ask about warranties on the repair work — most reputable plumbers guarantee their labour for at least 90 days, and some offer one-year warranties on both parts and labour.

When you want a straightforward quote from licensed Ontario plumbers, get free plumbing quotes through PlumbingQuotes.ca. For faucets beyond repair, our faucet and fixture installation page covers what to expect during a full replacement. And if your dripping faucet is one of several plumbing issues you have been putting off, our guide on what to do before the plumber arrives helps you prepare for an efficient service call.